Not wishing to trail up and down the motorways twice in a short space of time I combined a few days fishing on the Awe, south of Oban with a family wedding in Ayrshire, in all taking up about twelve days, including visits to Skye and Braemar.
Fishing on the Awe
There is something extraordinary about the privilege of being on the banks of a beautiful river knowing you have that bank to yourself for a week. My family’s backsides have sat on the boulders there for four generations. My casting was up to nothing but the welcome at Tighandaraich lodge (info@tighandaraich.co.uk) and the cooking by chef, Mike Knowles (privatechefmike@mail.com) were outstanding. I caught up with new flies in more ways than one and discovered that my old rod was a brontosaurus.
Portree harbour
I had never been to Skye and had no understanding just how sizable it was nor how varied its landscape and weather. My first mistake was not booking the ferry but luckily, just outside grim Fort William, there was a sign giving the next sailing with availability. It was hours later.
Castle of Eileen Donan
We took the bridge, instead, past the stunning castle of Eileen Donan and up to Portree to stay in the MacLeod’s family run hotel, The Royal, overlooking the harbour. (maureen@royalhotel.scot) Lovely archive room with fine family portraits and photos. The staff kind and rooms welcoming and comfortable. It proved the perfect place from which to explore.
We are not walkers nor sailors but foodies. We chose to allow our greed and curiosity to take us around the island. On purpose the type of eatery varied. For starters, Portree has many options including our hotel. Covid ensured we had to plan ahead and we did not always get our first choice. The menu was so good in the lively Dulse & Brose. We ate there twice. So varied it could have done us for a week. Our venture on the first day to the north of the island was shrouded in mist and midges enough to make all things dour. But what is wrong with dour unless you put a wind farm on it?
Armadale castle
The rest of our short stay was bathed in bright warm sun deepening the shadows on the Cullins and showing up the glory of the heather. I wondered why I failed to see any beehives. To the west was Armadale, now a quixotic, forbidding ruin overlooking the sea. Wonderful trees. (www.armadalecastle.com)
View from Kinloch Lodge
The Clan Donald Museum of the Isles made the whole journey. The museum, dedicated to the history of the clan, is outstanding. Beautifully presented, throwing fascinating insight on the potato famine as devasting as the better known Irish version and emigration of course. Deep history too. The Union Jack was a rare sighting on this island. Sunday lunch of langoustines and venison in the Kinloch Lodge made famous by its chatelaine, Claire Macdonald, was perfect kinloch-lodge.co.uk. Beautifully set up in the family home. I would suggest some of her cookbooks in the shop at Armadale. Nice touch on the back of the menu as to the local suppliers of which there were 14. Her daughter now runs the hotel.
Dunvegan and those chimneys
We ventured north further into MacLeod territory. The castle at Dunvegan is forbidding and could do with some new chimneys. The interior of the house is a joy. Wonderful portraits which allowed a history of tartan, family connoisseurship and long and international history. There is a good introductory film by the present laird. Fresh flowers and knowledgeable guides were an added bonus. In that direction too was the extraordinary Loch Bay restaurant booked in advance as has become de rigour but here also paid for lochbay-restaurant.co.uk. The meal was worth it and the hake with surf and razor clams was perfectly cooked. I had drawn the short straw as chauffeur but I allowed myself a delectable glass of Merusault as suggested by the chef. In Carbost, The Oyster Shed was well organised. Oysters of course and other dishes with chips. I had smoked mackerel. Bring a utensil. Alas, it is so well known and has a tiny carpark which was not made for camper vans in spite of them trying. It is fun and efficient.
Highland Natural Accents
As for other highlights. I spotted some good ceramists. But really impressive too around the corner from our Portree hotel was the Highland Natural Accents run by American, Leslie Foals. She had a financial background, once a sculptor and brought up with textiles. She aimed to create the sort of shop that would find favour in New York. She has succeeded in curating just this. There is no other word for this marvel of colour and texture, a must visit. Mainly Scottish makers and a few Welsh and English. Newspaper shops and delicious ice cream with easy parking make the Royal Hotel a great springboard to Skye. 
Before a family wedding in Ayrshire we had a few days to fill so went to stay in The Fife Arms Hotel, Braemar.
The Fife Hotel
I suppose in all honesty no hotel should be so expensive for B & B but it is and was probably in advance of others now springing up throughout the UK. Staying there is an event and you become part of it. Surrounded by good contemporary and 20th century paintings and lots of brown furniture re-utilized. It is hugely enjoyable. Bedrooms are themed on visitors to the nearby Braemar. We were in German Emperor and Little Willy was glaring at us complete with iron cross. A selection of images from the hotel are below.
Braemar Castle
The garden and site above the Dee memorable. The food was excellent some of it great. Jaunts included the charming Ballochter, and Braemar Castle which was terrific with an installation in the grounds of neon lights. The 16th laird of Invercauld rented it to the local community for 50 years. He died on October 6, 2021, aged 102. Wonderfully vibrant tartan and let’s hope that the coming renovations will result in the castle being repainted pink as his American first wife dared.
Braemar Laird tartan
Site of the Braemar Games
The site of Braemar games I would not have missed. But was disappointed not to sample the famous patisserie. It is only open three days a week.
The Royal Box
Ayrshire was another few hours but again tartan was the rage and the music of the pipes much in evidence. When the sun shines in Scotland why go anywhere else?
Tartan is all the rage