Skopje 2014
There are many reasons to go to Skopje, capital of Macedonia. I would put on the list the Byzantine churches, the Ottoman architecture, a rich collection of costumes in the National Museum, the unique donations of both buildings and art from the international community after the earthquake of 1963, the food, the buzz, the Stone Bridge and people watching.
Alexander the Great
However, the fruits of a new development project ‘Skopje 2014’ make you feel a voyeur, looking at the seamy side of a life you have much admired but you now see as flawed. The actual plans for this pop-up display had been around for some time when Macedonia was part of Yugoslavia.
It is the Vegas effect of these new buildings which makes you want to shield your eyes. Along the River Vardar vast white palaces, triumphal arches and fountains have risen over the last four years. It is the embellishments, the sculpture and the iron work, that are so grippingly bad. Not one but two bridges, covered in bronze muscular men going nowhere, run parallel to the splendid old Stone Bridge. Alexander and Philip of Macedon rise above you – every one on steroids including Bucephalus. There is not one but three cement schooners in the river to set sail and, one presumes, attack Greece. Did the idea come from the Ukraine? The people must love it all as they have just re-elected Nikola Gruevski, the instigator of all this nonsense. Bet Alex Salmond is jealous.
Lamentation – St Pantelejmon
Two of the most beautiful churches in Macedonia are a taxi ride away from the city centre. Indeed St. Pantelejmon at Nerezi has frescoes of such beauty and piercing emotion they are unmatched in the 12th century. This was an Imperial commission. Regal too is the tiny, 14th century, S. Andrea, on the edge of the Matka Gorge. The settings here are lovely. There is a good restaurant with delicious local wine next door to the church.
Matka Gorge and reservoir
The ‘old’ town of Skopje was hardly touched by the 1963 earthquake. Those Turks knew a thing or two, although General Piccolomini in 1689 did his best to be destructive. There is the bazaar where you can buy the famous filigree silver and finely wrought leather slippers or a wedding dress covered in glitter. As a country on vital trading routes, hans, hammams, mosques and baths, which the Turkish government has done much to support, are plentiful.
Contemporary Art Museum
Go also for the post-earthquake city designed by the Japanese architect, Kenzo Tange, whose fine schemes are now hidden by this recent work. Look at the prefab timber houses sent by Finland. Britain donated a theatre and three Polish architects designed the Museum of Contemporary Art. For this, 1800 painters and sculptors, including Picasso, Calder and Moore, donated work. They came from 65 countries. I am not aware of another such donation. There are only NGOs now. How the young Macedonian architects and sculptors of today must wish they had been given a chance to show their skills for project ‘Skopje 2014’.
Hotels
- The Best Western, Gjuro Strugar Street11, Skopje 1000 +389 2 3289111
Has the advantage of being central but don’t eat there.
Restaurants
- Pivnica An set inside the old Turkish inn of Kapan
Very good mix of Macedonian food. - Old City House, St. Pajko Maalo 14, Skopje +389 23131376
Wonderful food in old Ottoman house. - Restaurant Kanjon in Matka Gorge.
Fresh trout and light crisp dry white wine.
Agents
- Simonium Travel www.simoniumtravel.com.mk